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Frequently Asked Questions
How Do I Read The Lot Numbers?

Current format for product made after 1/1/2019: Ayymmddbbb
The first letter is A for made in America, the first two digits after the A is the last two digits of the year of manufacture, the fourth and fifth digits represent the month, the sixth and seventh digits represent the day of the month and the last three digits represent the batch number for that day.
Example: A190615023 – This material was manufactured on June 15, 2019

Format for product made prior to 1/1/2019: Aymmddbbbb
The first letter is A for made in America, the first digit after the A is the last digit of the year of manufacture, the third and fourth digits represent the month, the fifth and sixth digits represent the day of the month and the last four digits represent the batch number.
Example: A604270023 – This material was manufactured on April 27, 2016

Please contact Technical Service with any additional questions.

Frequently Asked Questions
Can high moisture wood be glued?

Moisture levels above 10% can slow the drying of water based wood glues such as Titebond Original, II and III to the point where, wood above 16% moisture content, may not dry at all. Water based glues can take 24 hours to fully cure before machining. A phenomenon called "sunken glue joints" can occur if water based glued assemblies are machined before moisture equilibrium is completed near the glue lines.

Frequently Asked Questions
Will Titebond Wood Glues wash out of clothing?

If Titebond Wood Glues are accidentally spilled on clothing, it is important to immediately wet it with water and keep it wet until all adhesive is rubbed off of the clothing. Do not put the clothing item in the dryer until all adhesive is removed. Heat will melt the adhesive into the fabric and it will be permanent. Titebond II and Titebond III if allowed to dry will not release from fabric. A mixture of Acetone/Water/Vinegar will soften the adhesive but will not dissolve it. Scraping the softened adhesive should remove a majority of the adhesive.

Frequently Asked Questions
What is the assembly and cure speed of Instant Bond glues?

Instant Bond - Thin Assembly Time: 5 seconds Cure Speed: 3 seconds;
Instant Bond - Medium Assembly Time: 7 seconds Cure Speed: 5 seconds;
Instant Bond - Thick Assembly Time: 10 seconds Cure Speed: 8 seconds;
Instant Bond - Gel Assembly Time: 30 seconds Cure Speed: 20 seconds

When Instant Bond Activator is used with the Instant Bond adhesive, all assembly and cure times can be cut in half.

Frequently Asked Questions
What if Instant Bond doesn’t bond?

Ensure the surface is clean and dry. If dust or dirt is on the intended bonded surface, use a small amount of acetone until clean. Acidic surfaces (wood with dark tannic acids, some leathers and metals) can inhibit curing of the Instant Bond adhesive. Use the Titebond Activator to start the curing process or, spray one side with Titebond Activator and spread Titebond Instant bond on the other surface for an instant bond

Frequently Asked Questions
How do I keep Instant Bond's applicator from clogging?

All Instant Bond caps are equipped with "anti-clogging" needles to prevent clogging and premature curing.

Frequently Asked Questions
How should I prepare a surface before using Instant Bond?

Ensure the surface is clean and dry of any material such as oil or dirt.

Frequently Asked Questions
Is there anything Instant Bond cannot bond?

Yes, do not use on foam, polyethylene and/or polypropylene plastics.

Frequently Asked Questions
Are there limitations when using Instant Bond?

Yes, not designed for continuous water submersion and installing rear view mirrors.

Frequently Asked Questions
Does Instant Bond only bond wood?

No, Instant Bond adhesives are not only designed for wood. They will also bond plastics, metal, rubber, cove base, brass, china, leather, pottery, fiberglass and more. For a complete listing, please contact our technical service team at 1-800-347-4583.

Frequently Asked Questions
How do I remove Instant Bond from my skin or project?

Place a small amount of acetone on the effected area and rub until the adhesive has been removed. Please follow solvent vendor’s precautions. Nail polish remover can also be used to remove adhesive. Be cautious as these products are flammable and can irritate skin.

Frequently Asked Questions
Can Instant Bond withstand extreme cold temperatures?

Instant Bond can withstand temperatures as low as -65°F.

Frequently Asked Questions
Is Instant Bond designed for interior/exterior use?

Instant Bond is designed for interior usage.

Frequently Asked Questions
Is Instant Bond heat and water resistant?

Instant Bond can be used in temperatures from -65F to 200F. Not recommended for exterior use due to slight softening of the adhesive with water.

Frequently Asked Questions
Are Titebond Glues safe to use?

All of our Titebond wood glues are safe to use and produce no harmful fumes. They meet the requirements of ASTM D4236 for safe use with arts and crafts. Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue and Titebond II Premium Wood Glue have both been approved for indirect food contact. For this reason, it is the glue that we recommend for making cutting boards.

Frequently Asked Questions
What is the "crackling effect"?

The "crackling effect" is a process that can give an antique appearance to just about anything. With this effect virtually anything will appear distinguishably aged. Traditionally, most hobbyists have used Titebond Liquid Hide Glue Instructions to achieve this effect.

Frequently Asked Questions
What are the resulting colors when the Titebond Wood Glues dry?

Titebond III Ultimate – light brown
Titebond Original – yellow
Titebond II Premium – translucent yellow
Titebond Dark – brown
Titebond Liquid Hide – transparent amber
Titebond Melamine – colorless
Titebond Quick & Thick - colorless
Titebond Translucent – colorless
Titebond Instant Bond – colorless

Frequently Asked Questions
How does Titebond III compare to polyurethane glues?

While polyurethane glues bond well to a variety of materials, Titebond III is superior in many ways. In addition to excellent water-resistance, it provides a stronger bond on wood-to-wood applications, doesn't foam and requires less clamp time. Titebond III has no health issues, doesn't require the use of gloves and cleans up with water. It is significantly less expensive than polyurethane glues and offers similar coverage rates.

Frequently Asked Questions
Why should I use Titebond III instead of Titebond II or the other Titebond Wood Glues?

While all Titebond products provide superior performance, Titebond III is especially useful for outdoor applications in cooler temperatures or when concern for substantial moisture calls for the use of a Type I glue. For interior applications, the longer working time of Titebond III provides woodworkers the necessary latitude to ensure that substrates are precisely aligned before being bonded. Overall, Titebond III combines superior strength, Type I water-resistance, long open time and low chalk temperature into one easy-to-use formulation.

Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between the ANSI/HPVA Type I and Type II water-resistance specification?

Both of these tests are conducted using 6” by 6” birch laminates glued together to make three-ply plywood. The test for Type I is clearly more stringent than Type II, and involves boiling the glue bonds and testing the specimens while they are wet.

Type I testing involves cutting the 6" by 6" assemblies into 1" by 3" specimens, boiling them for 4 hours, then baking the specimens in a 145°F oven for 20 hours. They are boiled for an additional 4 hours, then immediately cooled using running water. The specimens are sheared while wet, and the bonds must pass certain strength and wood failure requirements to pass the Type I specification.

Type II testing involves cutting the 6" by 6" assemblies into 2" by 5" specimens, soaking them for 4 hours, then baking the specimens in a 120°F oven for 19 hours. This is repeated for a total of three cycles, and the bonds must not delaminate to pass the Type II specification.

Frequently Asked Questions
Can Titebond Wood Glues be used for projects using teak, cedar or redwood?

Because a surface layer of oil or tannic acid tends to build up on these species, they can present a problem. For either type of wood, planing, jointing, or sanding shortly before bonding will remove the contaminating layer and allow successful bonding. Otherwise, the surface being bonded will need to be wiped with acetone to remove the layer. Acetone dries quickly and allows bonding almost immediately after the surfaces have been wiped.

Frequently Asked Questions
How do I clean up wet glue or remove dried glue?

For most of our water-based wood glues, it is often best to use a damp cloth and remove excess glue before it has dried. After the glues have dried, scraping or sanding works well. Steam from an iron may also be effective, but it will not take the glue out of the pores of the wood. Once dry, Titebond Instant Bond Wood Adhesives may be removed with acetone or sanding.

Frequently Asked Questions
Can surfaces that have been painted or stained be bonded using Titebond Wood Glues?

Most of our glues are designed to bond bare wood. Painting or staining a wood blocks the pores, keeping the glue from penetrating into the wood. It may be possible that some of our glues may work for gluing together painted or stained surfaces. It is necessary to remember that the overall bond will only be as strong as the bond between the paint and the wood. We recommend that all substrates be clean of any type of paint, stain, or sealer.

Frequently Asked Questions
Can Titebond Wood Glues be thinned?

Most of our water-based wood glues can be thinned with water up to 5% by weight or by volume. Adding more than 5% water to our glues will decrease the bond strength. Titebond Liquid Hide Glue is thinned by gently heating the bottle in a pan of warm water.

Frequently Asked Questions
What is the clamping and drying time of Titebond Wood Glues?

For most of our wood glues, we recommend clamping an unstressed joint for thirty minutes to an hour. Stressed joints need to be clamped for 24 hours. We recommend not stressing the new joint for at least 24 hours.

Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best way to disassemble a glue joint?

The key to the disassembly of glue joints is weakening the bond. For Titebond Original, Titebond II and Titebond III, raising the glue joint temperature with a heat gun or a blow dryer will reduce the glue's strength. Steam from an iron may also work. Placing a few drops of water on the edge of a joint made with Titebond Liquid Hide Glue will, after absorbed, cause the joint to weaken. For Titebond Instant Bond glues, placing a few drops of acetone on the joint may cause the joint to loosen after absorption.

Frequently Asked Questions
What is the shelf life of Titebond Wood Glues?

Our literature states the shelf life of a majority of our wood glues as two years. Most of our yellow and white glues, including Titebond Original and Titebond II, remain usable beyond two years. Should Titebond Original become thick and stringy, or Titebond II turn into an orange-colored gel, these changes signify that the glue is no longer usable. The minimum shelf life of Titebond III is stated as one two years. When stored appropriately at room temperature, Titebond III is expected to last beyond its stated shelf life. If thickened, shake vigorously by firmly tapping bottle on a hard surface until product is restored to original form. For a complete list of Titebond wood glues, adhesives and sealants shelf lives click here.

Frequently Asked Questions
What does the term "shelf life" mean in regard to Titebond Wood Glues?

"Shelf life" is a conservative estimate of the minimum time period that we would expect a given product to remain usable, when stored as directed. This concept might also be called "useable service life" or "storage life," and it necessarily refers to both the physical handling properties and the ability of the product to perform properly. When used in reference to wood glues, reaching the stated shelf life does not mean that a product will "expire" or become unusable. Instead, we view the stated shelf life of most of our glues merely as a guideline to avoid potential aging concerns. In reality, as long as products like Titebond Original, Titebond II and Titebond III remain fluid, without a drastic change in appearance, they will continue to perform as intended. For a complete list of Titebond wood glues, adhesives and sealants shelf lives click here.

Did you know?
How to properly add dye to Titebond Wood Glues.

It is possible to change the color of any of our water-based Titebond Wood Glues by adding either dyes or pigments. Water-soluble dyes such as food coloring or TransTints can be added directly to the wood glues with good mixing. Powdered dyes or pigments should be mixed with a drop of Dawn dish detergent and a small amount of water to help prevent lumps in the pigment mix. Mix until smooth. Diluting the pigment mixture further to 50% solids will allow for better mixing into the glue. Add no more than 5 percent dye to keep from affecting bond strength of the adhesive. Start by adding a small amount of the dye/pigment mix, as small amounts can significantly alter color. Before making your final color decision, be sure to let a sample of the dyed glue dry. When the mixtures dry, they may look different from the wet state.

Did you know?
Special consideration must be given to projects involving different wood species.

When different wood species are used in a project, it is important that all woods have the same moisture content. Storing all the wood together in the same warm, dry location before beginning the project will help all the wood reach the same moisture content.

Did you know?
Decrease clamping time using a vacuum press.

To decrease the clamp time in a vacuum press, put a thick piece of wood into the vacuum bag to help absorb the moisture from the glue. This technique is best utilized when laminating many thin veneers together because the water in the glue saturates the veneers.

Did you know?
When gluing, use masking tape to cover parts of your piece that will be stained later.

Glue joint "squeeze out" may make the area around the joint difficult to stain. Use masking tape to cover the areas that you do not want glue to soak into. The sections that were masked will be free of stain-resisting glue when the masking tape is removed.

Did you know?
Get good results gluing end grain joints.

Although good joint design minimizes the need for gluing end grain, sometimes end grain joints are unavoidable. The strength of end grain joints can be improved if the "open" end grain is first sized. A sizing mixture may be made by mixing one part to two parts water to one part glue. Place the sizing mixture on the end grain. Let it soak in for no more than two minutes, and then continue with a regular application of glue.

Did you know?
Ensuring that homemade wood fillers adhere to the surface.

Use a small artist's brush to coat the surface with glue before applying homemade wood filler. Doing this will assure that the surface is wet enough to encourage adhesion. Otherwise the wood filler mix may be too dry to adhere well to the surface to which it is being applied.

Did you know?
Prevent "stepped" joints in your projects.

Stepped joints typically result when pieces of wood of different moisture contents are edge glued together in making a tabletop or cabinet door. It is important to be sure that all the wood for a given project is at the same moisture content before beginning a project. Allowing the wood to acclimate or sit exposed in your shop for a week or two is one way to be sure each piece of wood has a similar moisture content.

Did you know?
Get better results gluing woods that are oily or high in tannic acid.

When working with woods that are high in tannic acid or are considered oily, wiping the joints with acetone before gluing them up ensures a good bond. Acetone clears the contaminants from the wood's pores on the bonding surface and dries quickly without leaving any residue. A good bonding surface can also be achieved by sanding or planing the wood just before gluing the joints.

Did you know?
Prevent sunken joints in your projects.

Water-based wood glues such as Titebond Original or Titebond II build strength in a joint as they lose moisture into the surrounding wood. This moisture causes the wood on both sides of the bondline to swell slightly. If the project is planed or sanded before this swelling disappears, the high moisture wood near the joint will continue to dry and will shrink slightly compared to the rest of the wood. Allow your project to dry for several days before sanding or planing.

Did you know?
Determine the optimum clamp time of Titebond Liquid Hide Glue.

Titebond Liquid Hide Glue is very sensitive to humidity, therefore it is often hard to tell when to take off your clamps. The best way to determine your clamp time is to place a scrap piece of wood with Liquid Hide Glue spread on it next to your newly glued and clamped piece. When the glue on the scrap piece of wood is dry, you can take your clamps off. Be sure to wait at least 24 hours before you stress the joints.